Travis awoke a memory or two of my embassy days in Bujumbura, Burundi. Particularly memorable were some of the glaring cultural differences that made life there interesting. Forgive me if these next few posts aren’t about Iraq and I stroll down memory lane here.
While on embassy duty all Marines were required to conduct annual familiarization training with the various firearms that were at the time provided by the Department of State for us to use in the event that the wolves came knocking at the door. It was expected that said wolves be greeted with enthusiasm by Marines wielding shotguns, or Uzis, or
a sock with a brick in it. As a young grunt coming from an infantry battalion this scenario held a certain romantic quality for me.
For some crazy reason it was decided that doing familiarization firing in a nation that was currently embroiled in a civil war wasn’t such a great idea. At the time tensions were such that there was a national curfew at 1900 every night. Thus we always flew to Nairobi to conduct our training with the Marines there.
After all the gunslinger training was complete I was waiting at the Nairobi airport for my flight back to Buj. The plane had barreled down the runway when the pilot unexpectedly powered down and we returned to the terminal. Turns out the pilot felt like something wasn’t right, made a safety call and decided not to take off. As someone who has a keen interest in preserving his hide, I’ll never argue with anyone making a safety call.
So there we were hanging around the Nairobi airport waiting for mechanics to finish duct taping our plane. Throughout the airport other travelers to the Dark Continent went about their business. Some laid prayer rugs down on the floor in an area marked off for that purpose. Others sat in the airport bar sipping warm Elephant beer. The majority of passengers on my flight were Burundi nationals anxious to get home. In another group were a number of expatriates, non-government agency workers, and other American/European types including one Marine Corporal chatting together as travelers do when facing the mutually unpleasant specter of a delayed flight.
Hours went by. Every so often, a gentleman that worked for the airline would give us an update on what was going on. Then word came to us that another flight was coming in and we would be traveling in that plane instead. Great! When do we board?
Then our poor airline representative pressed his way to the edge of the crowd busily gathering their things to board when he said one simple thing that sent the crowd through the roof.
“The flight is being cance-“; he never got to finish his sentence as a planeload of passengers who had been waiting in the terminal all afternoon erupted in a torrent of regional dialects. Decibel levels immediately shot to heights nearly unbearable as the airline rep was verbally assaulted in various languages and with exotic hand gestures directed at him by an obviously discontented mob. It was like being at the Tower of Babel; I had never seen anything like it.
Our hapless airline spokesman, no doubt the junior man in the immediate area sent out to the slaughter, couldn’t get a word in edgewise. Clearly he was trying to pass some more information but no one was having it. All around him offended passengers were snapping at him like the ravenous undead. At any moment I expected Michael Jackson and a horde of break-dancing zombies to moonwalk through the terminal.
Seeing that forward progress was in jeopardy and being a man of action, I pressed my way through the mob and grabbed the distressed spokesman and had him tell me what was going on. He nodded thankfully and told me that the plane was ready but because of the curfew in Bujumbura we could land but would have stay at the airport the rest of the night. The airline had arranged transportation and lodging at a nearby hotel for all the passengers and the flight would leave first thing in the morning. All we had to do was shut up, follow the airline guy to our luggage, and get on the stupid bus.
So amidst the swirling anarchy in a Nairobi terminal I stood on a chair and began to bellow at the top of my lungs until I had everyone’s attention. First I stated an immutable fact:
“Okay, we’re not flying to Bujumbura tonight.” This touched off another round of shouting in foreign tongues punctuated with knife hands pointed in my direction.
“Don’t bother yelling at me; I don’t understand anything you’re saying anyway!” I boomed, knife handing them right back. They didn’t know what I already knew; I was louder than all of them put together.
“There’s a bus downstairs waiting to take us all to a hotel for the night and if we follow this gentleman over here.” I gestured to the waving airline spokesman, “He’s going to take us to pick up our luggage and get us on the bus. You can stay up here all night and argue if you want to. Me, I’m going with that guy!” As if on cue our maligned airline employee made a beeline for the escalator. Without missing a beat I hopped off the chair taking off with the airline rep like we were old buddies and towing a number of amused westerners in our wake.
“That was cool!”
“The Marine took charge! Yeah!”
The din of those passengers clearly not amused receded impotently behind us as we descended to the baggage claim on the escalator. I never found out if everyone made it to the hotel or not.
Oddly, no one had anything to say to me the next day as we traveled on an uneventful flight back to Bujumbura. Once again, anarchy and chaos were held back by the mere presence of a U.S. Marine.